Island in the Sky

A tall, sunlit red rock formation with jagged columns rises above a hillside of golden grass and scattered juniper at the start of the Indian Lodge Trail, Davis Mountains State Park, Texas.
Where the Climb Begins

Davis Mountains State Park is one of the most scenic parks in Texas. Tucked into the Davis Mountains and close to The University of Texas McDonald Observatory, the Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountains Preserve, and the Fort Davis National Historic Site, the park offers breathtaking views whether you camp, stay at the historic Indian Lodge, hike, bike, or simply drive to the top of Skyline Drive.

Golden grasses and sotol plants cover a high desert ridge overlooking distant mountain ranges under a wide blue sky streaked with thin clouds, Davis Mountains State Park, Texas.
Golden Grass, Blue Sky

These are views from the Indian Lodge Trail, a hike I’ve done a few times; the scenery never disappoints, no matter the season. Officially, the trail runs about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) one-way, starting behind the historic Indian Lodge — hiked as a there-and-back, the round trip comes to roughly 3 miles (4.8 km). Don’t let the modest distance fool you: nearly 700 feet (213 m) of climbing comes right at the start. Once you’re up, the terrain levels out into a fairly flat, easy ridge walk, and the 360-degree views are the kind that leave you breathless.

A golden grassland ridge with a yucca plant in the foreground overlooks Mount Locke in the distance, where the white domes of McDonald Observatory are visible on the horizon.
Observatory on the Horizon

From the ridge, you get commanding views of Indian Lodge below, scenic Highway 118 threading through the valley, and Mount Locke (6,790 ft / 2,070 m), home to The University of Texas’s McDonald Observatory. In the shot above, the observatory’s telescope domes sit dead center on the horizon.

A white satellite dish antenna of the Very Long Baseline Array sits in a high desert valley beside a small green-roofed building, surrounded by rolling hills dotted with shrubs.
Listening to the Sky

Look closely elsewhere along the trail, and you can pick out one of the ten dish antennas of the Very Long Baseline Array (VLBA), a continent-spanning radio telescope network run by the National Radio Astronomy Observatory — a reminder that even out here, in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert, the world is still listening to the sky.

An aerial view from the ridge of the Indian Lodge Trail looking down on the white adobe Indian Lodge and campground nestled in a canyon, with desert flats and distant mountains on the horizon.
The Lodge in the Canyon

Indian Lodge itself, visible below the ridge, has its own story. Civilian Conservation Corps crews built its original sixteen rooms by hand in the 1930s, shaping 18-inch-thick (46 cm) adobe bricks on site and hand-carving much of the furniture, before the state expanded the pueblo-style lodge with twenty-four more rooms in 1967. It’s a rare thing to look down on a National Register hotel from a hiking trail.

No matter the season you go, the Indian Lodge Trail is a short, steep reminder of why the Davis Mountains are called a sky island — a high, cool refuge rising out of the desert, with views that stretch clear to the observatories on the horizon.

That is the story behind the shots. If you liked this post, you may also be interested in others featuring Civilian Conservation Corps, Davis Mountains, Davis Mountains SP, Indian Lodge, Indian Lodge Trail, Landscapes, One Step, Parks, Texas, and VLBA antenna. Until the next time, keep clicking and capturing the beauty your eyes find.

Posted for Pepper’s One Step at a Time #16.


Sources

  • Texas Parks & Wildlife Department — Davis Mountains State Park — https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/davis-mountains
  • Texas Parks & Wildlife Department — Davis Mountains State Park Trails Information — https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/davis-mountains/trails-info
  • Texas Parks & Wildlife Department — Indian Lodge History — https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/indian-lodge/park_history
  • Wikipedia — McDonald Observatory — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McDonald_Observatory
  • National Radio Astronomy Observatory — Fort Davis VLBA Station — https://www.vlba.nrao.edu/sites/fortdavis.shtml
  • The Nature Conservancy in Texas — Davis Mountains Preserve — https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/davis-mountains-preserve/
  • National Park Service — Fort Davis National Historic Site — https://www.nps.gov/foda/

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22 Responses

  1. restlessjo
    | Reply

    Some of that desert cool would be very welcome right now, Egidio xx

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      I’d love to have some of that myself right now, too. Thanks.

  2. Leanne Cole
    | Reply

    Wow, that looks like an interesting place, really like places like that.

  3. Bob Ramsak
    | Reply

    I really like the scene with the golden grass. What time of year were these taken?

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Those images with the golden grass were taken in early January. Winters are mild for the most part. It was a perfect day to hike. The last two images were from March.

  4. Steve Schwartzman
    | Reply

    You caught some pleasantly wispy clouds. When it comes to hiking, it’s better to have the uphill stretch at the beginning, thereby making the return easier for a tired walker.

    Eve and I stayed at the Indian lodge only once, years ago. I just checked and found that “the historic Indian Lodge in Davis Mountains State Park was last renovated in spring 2025. The $3.5 million, two-and-a-half-year project included infrastructure upgrades (plumbing, electrical, and HVAC), room updates, and a redesigned courtyard.”

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      I’ve been to the Indian Lodge a few times, both the new and historic sections. I’m looking forward to going back again now that renovations are completed. Thanks for your comments.

  5. Wandering Dawgs
    | Reply

    Egidio, what a beautiful place! It’s easy to see why you enjoy going there.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Besides the beauty, the Davis Mountains SP is at 5-6K feet in elevation. It tends to be cooler than most other areas in Texas. Thanks for the feedback.

  6. Sam.Rappen
    | Reply

    Love your photos of this remote area. The brilliant blue skies are amazing. Thanks for introducing me to the VLBA… I just read about the concept in a science fiction book – wonderful to see one in action!

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks for your feedback. I hope you took a look at another post I have about VLBA in my blog.

  7. prmckee1
    | Reply

    one of my favorite places in Texas I visited more than once with you and friends. Thanks!

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      I love that place. Maybe it’s time for us to plan a comeback.

  8. pamperrault21
    | Reply

    What a stunningly beautiful location and your pictures are excellent. I really enjoyed this narrative, thanks. Never having been to Texas, I’m learning a lot from you. pp

  9. Anne Sandler
    | Reply

    What a beautiful vista and images Egidio.

  10. Anita
    | Reply

    Fantastic gallery, Egídio. The opening photo is just magical, what a place.
    The landscapes you show feel worlds away from the scenery here in Cyprus, which makes them all the more fascinating.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks, Anita. That is one of the beauties of WP blogs. We travel the world.

  11. Pepper
    | Reply

    What gorgeous landscapes and the lodge is amazing. 😊

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