Aleijadinho’s Masterwork — A Pilgrimage to Congonhas

Lens-Artists Challenge #405: Adventures

View over the red-tiled rooftops of Congonhas, Minas Gerais, seen from the terrace of the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus, with green mountains under a bright, cloud-filled sky.
Congonhas from the Sanctuary Hill

Welcome back from the Lens-Artists short break! This week, Ann-Christine has asked us to share adventures we have experienced “from long ago or lately.” I wholeheartedly agree with her that “every day is an adventure.” Take a look at her post for her latest adventure, impressive photos, and inspiration. Here’s mine.

When we realized we had a free week — no family gatherings — while traveling in Brazil in May/June 2026, I suggested we spend it among the historic cities of Minas Gerais. The region around Ouro Preto, in particular, is celebrated for its colonial art and history, and one name rises above all the others there: Aleijadinho.

Antônio Francisco Lisboa (1738–1814), known to Brazilians as Aleijadinho — “the little cripple” — was the son of a Portuguese architect and an enslaved African woman. Around 1777, in his late thirties, he was struck by a debilitating disease that historians suspect was leprosy, which slowly cost him the use of his fingers and toes. And yet, he created most of his celebrated work after the illness set in, carving with a chisel and mallet strapped to what remained of his hands while his assistants carried him to and from the scaffolding. Knowing how he worked makes his masterpieces all the more astonishing. His favored medium was soapstone (pedra sabão, in Portuguese) — soft enough to carve, yet enduring.

Near Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais’s old colonial capital, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was our destination that day: the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos at Congonhas, inscribed in 1985 as a masterpiece of Aleijadinho’s genius. (The other lovely towns nearby — Mariana, São João del Rei, and Tiradentes — are historic gems in their own right, though not themselves on the World Heritage list.) Fittingly, our first stop in the area was Congonhas, the start of our adventure.

The white Baroque façade and twin bell towers of the Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos in Congonhas, seen across its cobblestone courtyard, with soapstone prophet statues along the terrace wall.
The Basilica of Bom Jesus

Congonhas is nestled in the mountains of Minas Gerais. The city’s main attraction is the Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, its twin white towers rising above a broad stone courtyard. On the terrace before the church stand Aleijadinho’s majestic Twelve Prophets, carved in soapstone between 1800 and 1805 — the last great works of a master already gravely weakened by illness. Each prophet holds a scroll inscribed with a passage from his prophecies.

Although I photographed all of them, the one I feature is Amos. A shepherd and fig farmer from Tekoa, about 10 miles (16 km) south of Jerusalem, Amos was no trained prophet but a plain working man called to speak — and what he spoke was justice, thundering against the widening gap between the rich and the poor. It felt oddly fitting to meet him here, carved by an artist who had himself risen from the margins.

Aleijadinho’s soapstone statue of the prophet Amos, wearing a draped robe and cap and holding an inscribed scroll, standing against a blue sky with a lone palm tree behind.
Amos, Carved in Soapstone

Below the terrace, a view of Congonhas opens across the rooftops toward the mountains beyond — the featured photo of this post. Inside, the basilica rewards a slow look upward: the gilded Rococo altar and the painted ceiling, whose trompe-l’œil sky belongs to the school of Manoel da Costa Ataíde, Aleijadinho’s frequent collaborator.

The ornate gilded Rococo main altar and nave of the Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, richly decorated with polychrome carvings, a central crucifix, and hanging chandeliers.
A Rococo Heaven Indoors
The painted Baroque ceiling of the Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, showing a central biblical scene framed by blue-and-gold trompe-l’œil scrollwork and cherubs.
A Painted Sky Overhead

Leaving the basilica, you can take a short downhill walk on a cobblestone path that passes the six Passos — small chapels holding the Stations of the Cross.

A white domed chapel of the Stations of the Cross beside a cobblestone path descending from the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus, with the town of Congonhas and mountains in the distance.
The Path of the Passos

Inside them, Aleijadinho and his workshop arranged more than sixty polychrome cedar figures depicting the Passion of Christ, carved in the late 1790s and painted afterward. The scene I feature here is the Crucifixion itself — Roman soldiers raising the crosses as Christ is nailed, the faces caught mid-gesture, so vivid you half expect them to move.

A polychrome wooden sculpture group by Aleijadinho depicting the Crucifixion, with Roman soldiers raising the crosses and nailing Christ, staged inside one of the Passion chapels at Congonhas.
The Crucifixion

This was an adventure I’d been dreaming of experiencing since I was a child in Brazil. Being in Congonhas and seeing those statues in real life was also a lesson I’d only seen in Brazilian history books.

It’s great to be back with the Lens-Artists Challenges. I totally enjoyed the beautiful responses I saw from Beth’s challenge before we went on a break. I hope you will join this week’s challenge, too. Please don’t forget to use the “lens-artists” hashtag in your posts to help people find your wonderful challenge entries.

Next week, Anne will feature a new challenge. It will go live at noon EST in the USA. Tune in to find out more about the challenge then. Please see this page for more information about the Lens-Artists Challenge and its history. If you don’t want to miss any future challenges, please consider subscribing to the team members’ websites. Here they are:

That is the story behind the shots. If you liked this post, you may also be interested in others featuring Aleijadinho, Brazil, Churches, Cityscapes, Congonhas, Landscapes, Lens-Artists, Minas Gerais, Santuário do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, and UNESCO World Heritage. Until the next time, keep clicking and capturing the beauty your eyes find.


Sources:

  • UNESCO World Heritage Centre — Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Congonhas — https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/334/
  • UNESCO World Heritage Centre — Historic Town of Ouro Preto — https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/124
  • Encyclopædia Britannica — Aleijadinho — https://www.britannica.com/biography/Aleijadinho
  • Wikipedia — Twelve Prophets of Aleijadinho — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twelve_Prophets_of_Aleijadinho
  • Wikipedia — Sanctuary of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanctuary_of_Bom_Jesus_de_Matosinhos
  • Encyclopædia Britannica — Amos (Hebrew prophet) — https://www.britannica.com/biography/Amos
  • Wikipedia — Amos (prophet) — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amos_(prophet)

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15 Responses

  1. Teresa
    | Reply

    This is a great adventure and happy that you were able to do what you have always dreamt of. Amazing images Egidio.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Teresa, it was worth the wait. Thanks for the feedback.

  2. nesfelicio
    | Reply

    These are wonderful photos, and even more so the backstory. I can sense in this post the excitement to finally experience something you’ve been dreaming of.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Nes, I am glad you liked the post and photos.

  3. PR
    | Reply

    That’s wonderful, Egidio!

  4. Tina Schell
    | Reply

    Egidio, your post reminds me that there is SO much of the world I’ve not seen or even, as in this case, heard of! I loved your post and the exquisite work of a master who was not held back by his physical issues. What a mind and heart he must have had. Your images really brought his work to life – spectacular! I can see why you were so anxious to experience it, it’s amazing, as are your images of it.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Tina, I feel the same with your posts. I think we will see a lot of places we have not been to. It’s a great challenge. Thanks for your feedback.

  5. Wandering Dawgs
    | Reply

    Egidio, I’m so glad for you to be able to finally have the adventure you dreamed about all those years. Your images are stunning. You captured the details of the works beautifully.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks for your kind feedback. Yes, it took a long time, but it was worth every minute of it.

  6. margaret21
    | Reply

    This challenge is going to take us all on so many Virtual Adventures. And you are starting my journey off in great style, with inspiring stories, and magnificent ‘postcards’ from your travels. Thank you.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Don’t you love that? I can hardly wait to see where I’m going this week, and the best part is that I won’t need to pack a suitcase! Thanks for your wonderful feedback.

      • margaret21
        | Reply

        That’s absolutely right! Travel with no expenses, no missed connections or unsatisfactory hotel rooms (mind you, no ice creams either 😉) . What could be better?

        • Egidio Leitao
          | Reply

          Hey, I’ve got my favorite ice cream in the freezer. I’m ready to travel.

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