An Oasis on the Other Side of Nowhere

Panoramic view from the Cinco Tinajas lookout in Big Bend Ranch State Park, with a sandy creek wash winding through green desert scrub toward distant mesas under a blue sky.
The Edge of Nowhere

Whenever I visit Big Bend Ranch State Park, just west of Big Bend National Park, one of my favorite hikes is the one to Cinco Tinajas. The trailhead sits about 1.3 miles (2.1 km) from the Sauceda Ranger Station, and the hike is fairly easy — if your destination is only the lookout point above the tinajas. I love the panoramic views from the top, and I also enjoy taking the trail down to explore the pools themselves.

Tinaja is Spanish for a large earthen jar, and here in the desert Southwest the word describes waterholes carved into bedrock. When visitors look down from the lookout, they can see why the area earned the name Cinco Tinajas — five jars. Depending on the rains, some of the pools hold water. One year, I braved the cold weather and got into one of them. They are deep, and the water can be surprisingly cold depending on the time of year.

A deep tinaja pool reflecting blue sky and clouds, set in smooth gray bedrock at the mouth of a desert canyon.
Sky in a Stone Jar

Getting down to the wash involves a downhill trail with plenty of rocky stretches. That is the first challenge, both on the way down and on the climb back up. Once you reach the creek wash, you won’t find a clearly marked trail; you simply walk toward the canyon if you want to explore the pools.

A sunburst over the rim of a narrow rocky canyon at Cinco Tinajas, its steep volcanic walls and jumbled boulders partly in shadow.
Sunburst Between the Walls

The canyon walls are majestic and display the region’s geology beautifully.

A rugged outcrop of reddish volcanic rock rising from a hillside of desert shrubs, beneath a blue sky streaked with wispy clouds.
Sentinels on the Ridge

I captured these photos in February 2026, on my most recent trip to Big Bend Ranch — Texas’ largest state park, at more than 300,000 acres (121,000 hectares). Whenever I am there, I truly understand the park’s motto: The Other Side of Nowhere. You are surrounded by vast landscapes, silence, and solitude — and then, tucked into the rock, you find water.

That is the story behind the shots. If you liked this post, you may also be interested in others featuring Big Bend Ranch SP, Cinco Tinajas, Landscapes, One Step, Parks, and Texas. Until the next time, keep clicking and capturing the beauty your eyes find.

Posted for Pepper’s One Step at a Time #19.


Sources:

  • Texas Parks & Wildlife Department — Big Bend Ranch State Park — https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch
  • Texas State Historical Association — Big Bend Ranch State Park — https://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/entries/big-bend-ranch-state-park
  • AllTrails — Cinco Tinajas Loop — https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/texas/cinco-tinajas-loop

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17 Responses

  1. Cath Moore
    | Reply

    Hello Egidio….fabulous post. The environment is not so different from parts of Australia….which I have rarely had the opportunity walk. I absolutely love the photo with the sunburst…..that is a stroke of genius!

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks for the note, Cath. I agree that our environment is not so different from parts of Australia, based on photos I have seen online. About the sunburst, I often try to capture one whenever I see a chance.

  2. Steve Schwartzman
    | Reply

    Have you considered putting together an article for Texas Parks and Wildlife magazine that would promote Big Bend Ranch State Park? You’ve already got photographs and experiences.

    Portuguese, like Spanish, has “tina,” which was the same in Latin. As far as I can tell, though, Portuguese lacks the “tinalha” that would have developed, like Spanish “tinaja,” from the Latin diminutive “tinacula.”

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      I’ll take that as a compliment, Steve. No, I have not thought of an article. The park has suffered from the lack of staff support in recent years. That and some needed infrastructure renovations. Next time we meet for a photo walk, I’ll tell you about it.

      As for tinaja, I think you’re right. Portuguese does not have the expected tinalha.

  3. Sam.Rappen
    | Reply

    I visited the tinahas over 20 years ago. They are such an improbably find hidden in the desert landscape. Be careful getting into them… some don’t have climbable sides. A particularly sobering sight was the multiple claw marks of what appeared to be a wildcat, scratching desperately on the stone shoulders of the catch basin. No happy ending there.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      They way you are referring to the tinajas makes me think of the ones in Big Bend National Park. Are those the ones you have in mind? The ones I featured in the post are in the state park. They are all at ground level and easily accessible. On the other hand, the ones in the national park are exactly the way you described them: some don’t have climbable sides, and some animals have died there trying to go down for water. Thanks for your comment.

  4. shoestringdiary
    | Reply

    Your shots of that lovely desert that reminded us about our time in similar landscapes in California years ago – and a departed dear friend who accompanied us on many trips there. Love the way you captured the water pool and the sunburst amidst the rocks.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks for the feedback. That park is so remote and quiet. I love visiting it, but it’s a 10-hour drive from home (including gas and meal stops). Big Bend is on the other side of Texas.

  5. Yinglan
    | Reply

    I love the sunburst photo. 🙂

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thanks for the feedback, Yinglan. I like taking photos of sunbursts.

      • Yinglan
        | Reply

        I love to take sunburst photos, too.

  6. Anne Sandler
    | Reply

    Egidio, what a beautiful desert landscape. I especially like the rock formations.

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Thank you so much for your feedback, Anne.

  7. Pepper
    | Reply

    Oh, my goodness! I think this is my favorite set of images from you yet, Egidio. I would love to be standing right there on the edge of nowhere. 😁

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Pepper, that means a lot to me. I love that park and with it were closer to home. Thank you.

  8. pamperrault21
    | Reply

    Ohmigosh, Egidio, you’ve taken some spectacularly beautiful and technically perfect pictures! I enjoyed them all but I really liked your narrative and I enjoy learning from you. I’ve never been to Texas, nor am I very likely to, so I’m living vicariously through your descriptive words and images. Thank you for sharing these with us. pp

    • Egidio Leitao
      | Reply

      Pam, your feedback is always a boost in my day. Thanks for your kind words.

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